Roberts’ ‘Crisis’ Wardrobe Tells a Darker Story

• Costume designer Giulia Piersanti used fashion to define power dynamics in Luca Guadagnino’s new thriller, “After the Hunt.”
• Julia Roberts stars as a professor whose sharp, preppy, and expensive wardrobe reflects her rigid personality amidst a campus crisis.
• The clothing choices reveal a psychological battle, particularly between Roberts’ character and a star student who emulates her style.
• Piersanti, who also designs for Celine, has a long-standing collaboration with Guadagnino on visually rich films.

Dressing for a Psychological Battle

In Luca Guadagnino’s tense new psychological thriller, “After the Hunt,” the sharpest weapon isn’t the dialogue—it’s the wardrobe. The film, starring Julia Roberts as a Yale professor caught in a scandal, uses clothing to tell a story of power, aspiration, and psychological warfare, thanks to the vision of costume designer Giulia Piersanti.

Decoding the Professor’s Style

Roberts’ character, Alma Imhoff, navigates a crisis with an unmistakable penchant for preppy, tailored, cream-colored pieces from luxury labels like The Row, Celine, and Lemaire. Piersanti explained that she aimed to convey an “upper-class chic” with an “edge and rigidity.” The deliberate absence of soft fabrics, knitwear, or dresses creates an angular, severe silhouette that mirrors the character’s internal state.

“The goal is to ensure the viewer understands the character without making too obvious choices but still adding personality where the script allows freedom,” Piersanti stated.

A Wardrobe of Manipulation

The sartorial choices create a clear power dynamic, especially with a star pupil, Maggie (Ayo Edebiri), who mimics her professor’s style. Maggie’s wardrobe, featuring younger designers like Grace Wales Bonner, emulates Alma’s look but at a less “extortionate price point.” This subtle imitation is a key visual cue, hinting at Maggie’s yearning for Alma’s approval—and perhaps something more sinister.

Piersanti, who also heads knitwear for Celine, has collaborated with Guadagnino on acclaimed films like “Call Me by Your Name” and “A Bigger Splash,” proving once again that in their films, what a character wears is just as important as what they say.