The stage is not a street, and the clothing of pop stars has, in theory, little to do with the clothes of ordinary mortals, but that does not mean that their aesthetics do not mark the aesthetics of the rest, even if He contained more than literal. The metal of the album, the warped luxury of grunge or the fetish fantasy of Madonna penetrated deeply into the mass trends that continue to the present day. Madonna and Jean Paul Gaultier were, in fact, the architects of perhaps the most powerful pop icon ever: the Blonde Ambition tour con corset, which added male references to the encoded object as a symbol of oppression, just to turn it around. With that corset, objectification ceased to be sexuality appropriation; That wearing device became a sign of rebellion and the sexual power recovered by the wearer himself.
Saving the distances, the new uniform of pop stars condenses a similar discourse: a very tight jumpsuit (or catsuit, as it is specifically called in English) that allows various parts of the body to open up and through strategic transparency. Reflects from. From Dua Lipa to Billy Illish, Rihanna to Beyoncé, Miley Cyrus to Cardi B, they all wear it. And it is signed by young American designer Casey Cadwalader, who is the creative director of Thierry Mugler since 2017. The first was when he saw that Loose was three collections earlier, in the spring of 2020, and its vast media exposure has made it the ‘core’ of the house, in a continuity product that reverses every season. Cadwallader has explained on several occasions that this and most of his designs have two inspirations: to update the legacy of Thierry Mugler and to create pieces that serve any type of body as self-affirmation. «My goal is to build a new culture around Mugler, inspired by a multi-disciplinary approach. I want it to suit a wide variety of women, of all ages, sizes and colors and at all times of the day. I want to create people who inspire me, and who in turn are inspired by the brand ”, explains the designer on the firm’s website.
Thierry Mugler’s architectural style, his amphibian and extremely powerful silhouettes broke into eighties fashion and fascinated pop culture. Those bombastic suits took another level (and another discourse) of the moment trend, power dressing, tailored suits, and marked shoulder pads, with which women showing the form of power dressed in uniform should be taken seriously. Mugler turned the concept upside down; It was not about dressing like a man to express power and freedom, but about wearing patterns that could drink masculine, but whose curves and volume resulted in extremely feminine pieces. Pop fell in love with the beauty and together they created some icons to remember, such as video clips for ‘Two Funky’, in which George Michael surrounded himself with supermodels of the moment dressed in Mugler designs. Thierry himself, retired over the years and devoted to opera and music hall costumes, returned to media headlines in 2009 to design Beyoncé’s costumes on the ‘I Am ..’ tour. Since then, she has lengthened her shadow by giving Kim Kardashian or Cardi B, among others, stunning pieces in archival pieces and on the red carpet. Interestingly, he never wanted Madonna to dress, arguing that it was his thing, as he would say in an interview in S. Moda, “to surround himself with the women who contributed to him . “
Mugler never stopped undermining the brand’s relationship with pop. It is enough to mention the designer-muse’s close relationship that another of its artistic directors, Nicola Formiquetti, retained with Lady Gaga. But Valder’s same story is told in another style: his garments play with the architectural and sensual, but in a more functional way: vests with vests, dresses with strategic openings or tight-fitting cotton, elastane and mesh overalls. Completely. Wearable (for those who dare to do so, of course). Their designs are not basic, but they are very intuitive, focusing on any silhouette regardless of measurement.
For Mugler, Casey Walder is the king of a trend that catches on. In fact, the List data platform claims that searches for these tight-fitting overalls or ‘catsuits’ have increased by more than 30% in the last month. In their report they also say that the popularity of this garment is with the same beauty with others, such as the corset. Interestingly, the ‘catsuit’ catwalked, expressing the opposite of what it is now: uniformity and even the elimination of gender barriers. It was Pierre Cardin and Andre Cour’edge, who, in the 1960s, in the midst of the birth of Ready-to-Wear, proposed it as a way to anticipate a unisex future in their future collections, with unnecessary decorations. Was not. The science fiction genre of fantasy and superheroes was, in part, responsible for ‘sexualizing’ those monkeys, carving them into vinyl or latex, and classifying them as erotic, which they still have today. But the change in mindset was gradually changing the meaning. From Catwoman to Britney Spears, playing with the emotions of an astronaut in ‘Oops, I Did It Again’, dressed in Marine Cere in every concert from Beth Ditto to The Gossip to Beyoncé Clad in Black Is King. The ‘catsuit’, due to its aesthetic power and the difficulty of moving it from day to day, has been one of the favorite pop clothes. But it has gone from the villain’s uniform to the heroine’s uniform, or what the same is, being a visual tool to emphasize the body’s appropriation. Now, he seeks fashion strong emotions and returns, among other issues, for sensuality and power, tight jumpsuits are revived in various collections: Charlotte Knowles, Kenzo, Ferragamo or Colina Strada bring it to the present and Adapt it to their respective aesthetics. Sometimes clothes that are so hard to wear and also, some are so impressive.