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the pandemic has also changed faces

the pandemic has also changed faces

“My colleague Carolina arrived last year and since until now we have had to eat separately, we had hardly seen her face,” says Verónica de la Peña, a 32-year-old lawyer. This situation, that of ‘rediscovering’ people with whom hundreds of hours have been shared, was repeated by many offices this week. The first thing she did on Wednesday? “Painting my lips red to go to the office, which was something she really missed.” The recovery of lipstick is just one of the many beauty rituals associated with the face that the perfumery and cosmetics industry is recovering, which directly employs 39,000 people in Spain. It has been a very difficult few months: according to NPD, the luxury lip makeup market in Spain weighed almost 60 million euros in 2019. In 2020, after confinement and the arrival of masks, it plummeted to 22.7 million . The comeback was gradual in 2021 (up to 26 million), but it has been accelerating in the first months of 2022: it grew 63% in January and 73% in March compared to the previous year. The volume is still lower than in 2019, but the outlook is very encouraging.

“Cosmetics is a very social sector and welcomes the withdrawal of masks with great expectations,” they indicate from Stanpa (National Association of Perfumery and Cosmetics). “Cosmetics is getting ready, it’s taking care of yourself, in recent months we have been able to observe a trend of more and more desire to show a smile”. In February, coinciding with the end of the outdoor mask, the perfume market already experienced a spectacular rebound, “with an increase of 33% in the luxury category and 26% in the category in total”. Now expectations are focused on makeup because, as Stanpa says, “with the arrival of good weather, people dress up more, which brings with it trends such as the use of more sophisticated or fun makeup products.”

Gone is the matter of not shaving the upper lip, chafing the ears or the hated mascne, These pimples appeared when the mask did not allow proper perspiration, causing an occlusion of the pore and the exit hole of the sebaceous gland. “People began to prepare for this new season and it is especially noticeable in the busy schedules of beauty centers, in makeup sales and in gyms. It is a revolution stimulated by the arrival of spring, where we show more skin” points out the expert from the prestigious facial products firm Perricone MD, who indicates that “there is a high demand for acne treatments in beauty salons, due to the effects of the mask on many skins”. treatments of peeling or with a laser to erase the red marks of the granites.

That skin that is exposed again is no longer the same. More care is taken –creams grow by 5.1% compared to 2019–, but less is painted –facial makeup, according to Stanpa, is still 30% below pre-pandemic data–. Questions arise about specific segments that flourished precisely because of the use of masks. This is the case of the eyebrow market, “the new lips” according to the trend report by the consulting firm Wunderman Thompson for 2021. In the difficult months of May and June 2020, when everything slowed down, the sale of eyeliners, pencils , gels or eyebrow fixatives grew by 8% in the United States, according to NPD.

The most explanatory transformations can be found in demand, but when analyzing it not only quantitatively. Now aspects such as sustainability, which has become a sales claim, and comfort are not being renounced. This last requirement is essential when launching any product: easy-to-apply and, above all, easy-to-carry formulas triumph. Perhaps for this reason, in just one month, the reformulation of the Dior Addict lipstick, more moisturizing, has climbed to second place in the ranking of best-selling lipsticks in the luxury sector in Spain. The latest launches for lips from other firms such as Guerlain, Sisley or Chanel have also focused precisely on that comfort. Regarding the care of the environment, probably the aspect that the tectonic change will imprint on the industry in the coming years, its importance is noted, for example, in the new solar (category that also plans to benefit from the end of the mask): there is no launch or reformulation that does not check the effect on the nature of its ingredients. Some examples? Caudalie, Avène or the Spanish Germaine de Capuccini.

The unveiling of a new face

“Today I realized that I have some very handsome students,” said one of Ana Salas’s teachers on Wednesday, a 42-year-old journalist who studies Spanish, language and literature at the Complutense University. “We started the course in September and, although she had seen some classmates having coffee, most never without a mask. It was a bit of a shock, quite curious.” The lips are dyed red again as a symbol of the new times while perfect smiles appear under the mask. “Although dental problems are a health issue, they are also closely related to self-esteem,” warns the dentist Carlos Saiz (with clinics in Madrid and Barcelona). “Already during the entire period of face masks we noticed an increase in the demand for dental veneers, but now the waiting lists have doubled. It seems that this summer everyone wants to have a perfect smile.” The most demanded treatments in these months? Veneers without dental carving, whitening or gingivectomy. Invisible orthodontics are also increasing, in full expansion since before the arrival of the coronavirus: “The market is continuously growing between 20-25% in Europe and the positive momentum is far from stopping,” they say from the German DrSmile, which arrived in Spain in 2020.

The removal of the mask also reveals more obvious changes in the faces, because there are those who have taken advantage of wearing half a covered face to undergo surgery. The mask “has hidden interventions such as rhinoplasty and the occasional facelift,” acknowledges Dr. Nélida Grande Mieza, vice president of cosmetic surgery at SECPRE (Spanish Society of Plastic, Reconstructive and Aesthetic Surgery). Although the intervention that has been most favored in these months of pandemic has been that of the little that was left in sight, that of the eyelids: “Blepharoplasties have increased with the use of masks,” adds the plastic surgeon and vocalist of security of SECPRE Obdulia Cañadas Moreno, “due to the fact that she was one of the exposed parties and that all the attention was focused on her eyes.” This contemplation of ourselves again will surely make the requests in this field mutate again. Although it is difficult to anticipate, he warns Jose Maria Pedraza plastic surgeon: “Surgeries are prepared with time, they are not things that are decided impulsively. I suppose that the increase in surgeries due to the end of the mask will begin to be seen when we have been without it for a month or two. It’s still early.” For what is not soon is to affirm that the beauty market is already waiting with open arms for this new client, discovered and optimistic.

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– Article Written By @Patricia Rodríguez from https://smoda.elpais.com/belleza/adios-mascarilla-belleza-cosmetica-sector-cirugia-odontologia-sonrisas-labios/

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