She has created makeup for thousands of fashion shows, hundreds of campaigns and many other covers. He has contributed to defining the beauty of an era and developed color divisions for firms such as Giorgio Armani, Gucci or Dolce & Gabbana. However, Pat McGrath (London, 51-years-old) had to hear that she was only good for the background. Who could be interested in lipstick with their name on it? It turned out to be millions of people. “When my first release, Gold 001, sold out in less than 10 seconds in 2015, I knew I could have my own makeup brand,” she reflects. Three years later, according to the exclusive portal WWD, Pat McGrath Labs was valued at $1,000 million, and closed collaboration with Supreme or the Metropolitan Museum of New York. In full global expansion, the line now physically reaches Sephora, Spain.
The Brush Genie started almost three decades ago by chance, when radio host Janice Long asked her to do her makeup. « I remember the feeling of infinite possibilities, of absolute joy. Going to ‘work’ has never felt like work. Fashion is a business that celebrates not only talent, but also the will, desire and perseverance to excel. She continues the excitement of a newcomer: “What could be better than being in the studio, sitting, talking, laughing, and most important, creating?” Those frontline characters are, on many occasions, friends. And it is that the artist’s career has flourished at the same time as the great names with whom he has collaborated over the years. She has formed perhaps the most fruitful tandem with photographer Steven Meisel, with whom she has envisioned all the covers of Vogue Italia for more than two decades. He introduced him to model Amber Valletta. “No one inspires me quite like Master Steven Meisel. When you’re lucky enough to have a mentor like Steven, as I have since 1996, there are times when you think makeup is the realm of the fine arts.” Could surpass.” Naomi Campbell, her cosmetics image from last year, is intimate from the same time: “We met with Kate Moss in 1994 on a session of ID magazine. As you can imagine, I was dying to meet him. This was one of my first presentations in New York and between the pictures we ordered noodles. It was just us, three girls from South London, having so much fun. So when Naomi became the face of our Divine Rose collection, it felt like we were in full swing.”
Backstage in a parade (and it’s usually over 60 in a season) he becomes a general in an army of makeup artists. It gets converted in a short distance. For some the world had baptized her many years ago with the surname of Mother (Mother). He has learned to deal with the stars and ego. his advice? Never take anything personally. Be creative, be flexible. As makeup artists, our job is to understand the vision of the creative director and find the best way to make it come true.
What she learned as a child is based on her perception of color. “My mom, Jean, was obsessed with fashion and beauty.” When I was younger, I would drag her shopping every Friday, while looking for a base of makeup so that a shade was deep enough. From him he inherited the passion and audacious nuance that characterizes his proposals. «He loved to share his knowledge, his expertise, his independence. this is what fuels the spirit of use without caution, the “use without caution” motto that can be found on your cosmetics. Your work is not a work of art, but it can be. Like the paintings, he argues, “it requires an eye for proportion, a love of color and texture, a strength of character to devote himself to the business and always seek the next level of perfection.”
Would you say that you have succeeded? « I think the secret to success is not to think that you have done it. I always push to do more; To grow and generate exciting ideas and products; To the makeup artist or anyone who loves makeup and beauty »