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Saturday, September 24, 2022

Giorgio Armani: “For me there is no style without ethics” | Fashion

“I’m not one of those who mythologize the past,” answers Giorgio Armani when asked about his privileged view of the evolution of the industry. A designer since 1960, when he joined Nino Cerrutti, and a businessman since 1975, he is one of the very few creators who can speak with knowledge of the drift of this business: “Before there weren’t that many. Now there are more names (and more audience) contributing ideas, and that is beneficial. The problem is that we are producing too much. There is too much supply and we should find a way to produce less, but better.” The issue of sustainability has always mattered to the Italian designer, but now more than ever: “It’s the most complex issue we face,” he says. Being in control of its own business has allowed it, among other little-known achievements, to be the first Italian company in terms of workplace diversity (according to the annual report carried out every year by the Financial Times newspaper) or one of the few that has detailed for where, how and who make their products. He calls it ‘the Armani values’, defining it as “a faithful vision, an opinion that should inform everything we do, from design to distribution. For me there is no style without ethics”. You were one of the first to publicly address this issue. It even urges you to buy less. What must this industry do to really face the problem? I know it’s complicated, but I think it’s about prioritizing quality over quantity, not only at the production level, but also creating a culture and communication that encourages buying better. Only in this way can the circularity or well-being of the supply chain be guaranteed. Today sustainability has become, in a sense, a marketing tactic, and it should be the opposite. It should be a common effort. “The Armani style never changes.” That phrase is recurring every time you are spoken of. Do you think it’s real? What is it that drives you to evolve? The society. Fashion is a reflection of our time. And I have always approached it as a tool to be able to express what people are looking for. Sometimes it has been confidence, others lightness and comfort, another empowerment… yes, always through elements designed to last. Her work has been key in understanding the way many women dress today. Do you consider yourself a feminist? At that time, when I created the silhouette of the female suit [se refiere a finales de los ochenta] he only thought about meeting his needs in the workplace. Give them comfort and confidence in a new environment for them, which they finally accessed. I don’t know if that makes me a feminist or not. I think that whether I am or not should be judged by women themselves. He was the first to foresee the real risks of the pandemic by canceling his parade hours before it took place. He was also the first to react to the war in Ukraine, holding his show without music. Why did he do it? Do you think that this industry is still far from reality? As someone who has been through all kinds of experiences in life, I understand the importance of speaking at the right time. In addition, I am an expeditious person, and in critical moments like these I cannot continue with my work and look the other way. Fashion should reflect the issues that concern everyone. We are a global and influential industry, so I think it’s the least we can do. There is a renewed craze for you among young people on social media, especially for your archive garments. What do you think is due? I guess they feel that affinity because I’ve always been true to my ideas and to myself. I do not work to please young people, nor do I commodify it. And I think that appeals to them, the fact that I have my own point of view. That doesn’t mean I’m not proud of it. I am proud to know that you can find in my work something with which you feel identified. In these almost 50 years, in which you have done practically everything, what are you most proud of? I am not one of those who rests on their laurels or one of those who constantly reviews. On the contrary, I would say that I am never completely satisfied. All I can say is that I have always acted with integrity and commitment, both professionally and personally. I have done what I could, although sometimes I think I could have done better. Do you regret something? No, I don’t usually like to regret things. It’s a waste of time. But if I could change something from the past, I would certainly have spent more time with my loved ones. How do you imagine your company and your brands in 10 or 20 years? How would you like them to be? As until now, maintaining that idea that I have always developed, of durable garments that adapt to different circumstances. I’m sure they will keep the ‘Armani values’, because strong values ​​never go out of style. The model is wearing a white silk trench coat and aquamarine earrings on Plexiglas sheet, by GIORGIO ARMANI. She is wearing Luminous Silk foundation, two-tone silver Eye Tint shadows, Lip Power lipstick and Eyes to Kill mascara, all by Armani Beauty. Photo: Lucrezia Ganazolli Tulle dress with sequins and beaded straps, all by GIORGIO ARMANI. Photo: Lucrezia Ganazolli Multicolor braided leather bag, by GIORGIO ARMANI. Photo: Lucrezia Ganazolli In the gardens of one of Armani’s properties in Milan, the 16th-century Palazzo Orsini, the model poses in a top, crocheted tulle cape and tulle skirt, all by GIORGIO ARMANI. Photo: Lucrezia Ganazolli Sweater with diamond cuts and white silk balloon skirt, by Giorgio Armani. Photo: Maria Giulia Riva * Styling Maria Giulia Riva.

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– Article Written By @Leticia García from https://smoda.elpais.com/moda/giorgio-armani-para-mi-no-hay-estilo-sin-etica/

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