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Monday, August 15, 2022

Aries, the cult brand that anticipates the future of streetwear

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What do Mike D of the Beastie Boys, Emily Ratajkowski, Rue of Euphoria and many teenagers who spend their days at the skate park have in common? The answer is that they are all fans of Aries, the London label that is blurring the lines between streetwear and high fashion. With genderless garments, a humorous aesthetic, and slogans like “Yoga Kills,” this female-led brand is no exception. His case is interesting because while luxury fashion is racking its brains thinking about how to absorb the codes of the street, Aries shows that it is possible to make quality clothes without losing the energy of the underground. Italian designer Sofia Prantera, who started out at Slam City Skates and was the creator of Silas in the 1990s, and Fergus Purcell, author of the Palace Skateboards logo, founded Aries in 2012. Their hallmarks are nods to subcultures such as skateboarding and skateboarding. gothic movement, and an anarchic visual style that mixes tie-dye prints with drawings of Greek temples and marijuana leaves. For years it was a cult brand, an open secret among those in the know, but it has recently gained visibility thanks to the HBO Max series Euphoria. Rue, the character played with Zendaya, wears several pieces of the brand, which has triggered interest in Aries. According to the luxury second-hand fashion platform Vestiaire Collective, searches for the brand’s pieces grew by 25% after its appearance in the series. The firm has just launched its new spring-summer 2023 collection, titled Taking Off in homage to a 1971 Milos Forman film of the same name about a teenage girl who runs away from home. The collection features five different archetypes, including the Camden punk or the cult member. On the occasion of the presentation, we talked to Sofia Prantera about gender in fashion, women in streetwear and the Aries CK moment. Photo: Douglas Irvine In Aries there is a great component of the underground. Does it still have a place in fashion? The references to different subcultures in Aries are nostalgic and playful, but they are also purposely distorted, and not to be taken too seriously. We like to break stereotypes, something that I consider to be one of the really important roles that fashion has in society. With social networks, everything burns quickly and we are exposed to so much that nothing we wear can be provocative. The rebellion still exists, but it manifests itself in counterculture, not fashion. It is no longer generational, and to survive in its purest form it has to isolate itself from exploitation and stay underground. Therefore, it needs to not appeal to more mainstream audiences who are interested in fashion. As a genderless brand, they must have seen significant changes in that space. When I started Aries, the idea of ​​dividing lines by gender seemed old-fashioned. The binary division seemed very arbitrary to me. We all wore the same t-shirts and jeans, but when we started selling we realized that in most stores there was a traditional gender demarcation. We offered a unisex line that included dresses, and I thought it would be easy for shoppers to choose what they wanted, but I think they found it confusing and the line wasn’t very successful. During the last 10 years, fashion has changed and although it could be said that silhouettes have been divided again in terms of gender, there has been a change in the male consumer, who has begun to buy products that have traditionally been considered typical of the sector feminine. This is the most interesting thing that has happened in fashion in recent times. What does streetwear look like from the perspective of a female designer?Historically it has been an area of ​​fashion dominated by men, and although I have not felt discriminated against as a designer, there is also an important social element in the industry, from which I can who has been excluded for being a woman. The early 2000s saw a shift to gendered silhouettes, much like what’s happening now, and I became disenchanted with streetwear because of that. Men’s stores and big businesses began to capitalize on the trend, and the result was sexualized, vulgar, poorly made clothing that didn’t represent me. I hope that today, with more diversity at the helm, we can move towards a more liberated version of streetwear, rather than a reactionary one, but we’ll see what happens. What did appearing in Euphoria entail? Heidi Bivens, the show’s costume designer, contacted us before the first season. At first I was worried that I wouldn’t be able to control our visibility, but I admire Heidi’s work, which is both ironic and beautiful, and we are encouraged. Zendaya really liked our underwear so we sent it to her and she became a part of Rue’s character. In the second season we made several designs for her. The subtle sexuality and beauty of the character is very Aries, and although she is a flawed person, she is an antihero to a new generation of girls. The way Euphoria portrays women is very innovative, there aren’t that many popular shows that portray female characters in such a raw way, and I think it’s an important moment in fashion that we’re proud to be a part of. As a joke, I told Heidi that Rue’s bath moment is the Aries equivalent of a 90s CK commercial. How does Aries retain that artisan quality that sets it apart from other names in urban fashion? In our design and production we operate more as a fashion firm than streetwear. Our garments are made in Italy and we work with some of the best factories, although we keep a small production in the studio. I started the brand as a way to avoid the huge production that is needed at a minimum in casual fashion: we would get jeans and white t-shirts, and we would dye, print and paint them with the idea of ​​diversifying the product. Now practically all the production is industrialized but we have gathered a great deal of that knowledge and we work hand in hand with the factories to achieve the finishes we are looking for. Continue reading The machinery behind the ‘Zendaya enigma’: family control and sentimental secrecy to create the perfect star

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– Article Written By @Brenda Otero from https://smoda.elpais.com/moda/sofia-prantera-disenadora-aries-marca-londres-streetwear/

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